In Vino Veritas at Harvard

Veritas (truth in Latin) is the well known motto of Harvard University. Harvard Law School has a thriving wine society, cleverly named In Vino Veritas. In February, I had the distinct pleasure of leading a tasting of Italian wines at one of the bi-weekly events. A thirsty crowd of about 70 wine enthusiasts gathered to taste an eclectic selection of wines from different Italian regions.

I'm a big fan of Italian wines. There is a huge number of interesting grape varieties used in Italian wine production and, in general, Italian wines seem to offer food friendly balance at every price point. In between tasting the wines and enjoying good company, and aided by some terrific maps of the regions, courtesy of the Italian Consulate in Boston, we touched on the country's historical wine journey, wine laws (appropriate, given the audience), food pairings and grape varieties.

All the wines for the tasting were sourced in Boston. First up, a delicious and fresh Arneis from Roero in Piemonte. This white DOCG wine, from the Ascheri winery, is aromatic, fresh and quite delicious. Sometimes used to soften Nebbiolo in the Roero, this was a favourite with many. Not often available at the LCBO, it's worth searching out and serving with pasta with a light cream sauce or with a variety of seafood.

Next up for tasting was a Vermentino from Sardegna. This one had 15% Nuragus in the blend - not an everday varietal. This had less on the nose and wasn't quite as fine as some other Vermentino I've tasted recently from the LCBO. For Ontario shoppers, there are still a few bottles of a very tasty Crabilis Vermentino 2008 lurking on some shelves.

Then onto the reds, starting with a trip back up to Piemonte, and a Barbera d'Alba, again from Ascheri. The winery is located in Bra - home of the slow food movement. There is so much delicious Barbera grown and produced all over Italy, and most especially in Piemonte, but this one was a little thin. Still, the interesting thing at wine tastings is the range of opinions for any given wine, and more than a few folks liked this one.

Off to Tuscany next, and a nice Rosso di Montalcino from San Felice winery. Good body, nice balance and juicy dark fruit and cherries on the nose and palate made this Sangiovese wine a real winner. Rosso di Montalcino is often referred to as baby Brunello. Usually made from grapes from vineyards close to those used for Brunello, and barrel aged for less time, Rosso can be drunk considerably younger than Brunello and is often great value.

Still in Tuscany, we next tasted a baby Super Tuscan - (winery description, not mine). With about 70% Sangiovese, the rest mainly Cabernet grapes, and not much aging, this one could best be described as rustic. But given the right food............

Last up was a wine from Puglia (the heel) produced by the organic winery, Perrini. Negroamaro is widely grown in the region, sometimes bottled as a straight varietal and sometimes blended with Primitivo, another main Puglia grape. This was pretty good - juicy, nicely balanced, briary (in a good way), definitely a little brooding and rustic, and crying out for some kind of rich stew that we didn't have on hand. Negroamaro is often available at the LCBO and is a great food wine, despite, or perhaps because of, the meaning of its name - black and bitter.

Now why exactly was GrapeScot leading a wine tasting at Harvard? Well, it's a long story, best told over a glass of nice Italian wine. But in the meantime, here's a terrific blog to while away the hours with your own glass of wine. On second thoughts, this blog will take you all over the world on adventures that few experience, so perhaps you'd better open a new bottle before embarking. See if you can see a GrapeScot family resemblance in the author.

Salute!

"Thank you again for hosting last night's event. Everyone really enjoyed themselves and your work was greatly appreciated. I received comments from multiple people regarding the helpfulness of the resources and information."

Jonathan Truppman, President, In Vino Veritas

May Malts at DiVino Wine Studio

A capacity crowd gathered at DiVino's on March 4th for an international whisky tasting. Paired with the predictably good food from DiVino's kitchen, an enthusiastic crowd tasted their way through some gems from Japan, Ireland, the US, Canada and, of course, Scotland. As a very basic description, all whisky is an alcoholic beverage produced from grains and water, but between chopping down the grain in a field and pouring something deliciously interesting into a glass, a lot of different things happen. In between sampling, we followed some of the processes and techniques used in different countries and distilleries to produce various versions of uisge beatha, aqua vitae, the water of life - call it what you will.
The next tasting at DiVino's will be on Thursday, 27th May. After traveling the whisky globe in March, we'll be back in Scotland for this one. Expect great Single Malt Scotches, fabulous whisky friendly tasting plates, good company and a little education. These events sell out pretty quickly, and there was a waiting list for the last one. Hope to see some of you in May.

Date: Thursday, May 27, 2010
7pm to 9pm
$85 plus taxes and gratuity/admin fee
For information and reservations call 613-221-9760 ext. 21
or email: bookings@divinowinestudio.com

A Culinary Jewel in Algonquin Park

Canoe camping and fine dining don't generally go hand in hand. In fact, it's pretty much impossible to consume any fresh food after paddling and portaging in Algonquin Park for a few days in the summer.
For many years now, my husband and I have enjoyed the spectacular scenery and blissful peace of the park for about a week, sometimes longer, in July or August. Algonquin Park covers an area of about 7700 square kilometres and is located between the Ottawa River and Georgian Bay, on the southern edge of the great Canadian Shield. Hundreds of millions of years, an ice age and the subsequent melt have resulted in a vast area of interconnected lakes, which is unique in the world. Thanks to a clever Master Plan for Algonquin, approximately 12% of the Park is a designated wilderness zone, aimed at ecological preservation.
There are no roads, only rough paths - portages, which paddlers must traverse with their gear in order to cross from lake to lake. The scenery is spectacular and canoeists and kayakers come from all over the world for the privilege and the beauty of the experience. Camping access is limited and controlled, ensuring peace and tranquility for both paddlers and wildlife.
Any fresh food taken into the park has generally been consumed or turned strange by day three, so culinary delights feature a whole lot of dehydrated stuff. It does the trick in terms of nourishment of the body, but not a lot for the soul. And even if you fish and catch something tasty, it's pretty much impossible to chill a nice Chablis - the one that you previously decanted into a Nalgene bottle, since glass is not allowed in the park. Still, even foodies will agree that the many splendours of the park more than make up for a week without fresh veggies and sauces from scratch. Having said that, it is possible to start hallucinating lettuce leaves after about eight days, and there's no question that a hot shower, and a meal at the first restaurant you encounter on the way home are both very welcome.
So, this year we decided to spend a couple of days at Arowhon Pines at the end of our week in the park. This is one of three lodges in the park. It's a summer resort, located on Joe Lake and renowned for its beautiful location and exquisite cuisine. The idea of fabulous food, lovingly prepared by chef David Cooke and his amazing team, after days of packet mixes, was very appealing.
As it turned out, we cancelled the canoe camping and took a last minute cruise in the Bahamas instead. Ottawa residents will recall the endless July rain and, after months of preparing to move house, the prospect of a week of thunderstorms in Algonquin Park had little appeal, so we wimped out. But we did make sure that we were back from the cruise in time to drive to Arowhon and enjoy the weekend. Despite the fact that it came after five days of fairly decent food on 24 hour availability, the cuisine at Arowhon was out of this world!
Virtually everything is prepared from scratch with the best possible ingredients, many of them local or grown in Arowhon gardens. Stocks, sauces, breads, yogurts, jams, chutneys, some of the teas - all homemade. The range and quality of the food, terrific service, relaxed atmosphere and sheer beauty of the location makes Arowhon a fabulous experience. If you've read this far, take a couple of minutes to check out the Arowhon Pines website and salivate over a few menus. As a sommelier, passionate about food and wine matches, I love the fact that Arowhon is a BYOB place (with no corkage fee). I had a look at their menu before we went and ended up taking more than a few bottles with us to make sure that we had wines to match all the delicious sounding choices. It was great fun!

Another big plus was the unfettered use of all the canoes, kayaks and other essentials of a rustic resort in Algonquin Park -no fees or signing up or handing over of credit cards as a deposit. Apart from the inevitability of the final bill, the whole experience felt like staying with laid back friends who just quietly look after your every need, but leave you alone to relax and enjoy.
Arowhon Pines is now closed for the season, but it's not too early to reserve for next year. They fill up fast.
I know we'll be going back and, hopefully next time, it will be after a week of dried foods and water, filter-pumped from the lake!

Italian Food and Scotch - Yum!

A picture is worth a thousand words, but since I forgot to take my camera to the DiVino tasting, the words must suffice! A terrific crowd of Scotch lovers gathered at DiVino's to savour a range of award winning Single Malts, paired with some delicious cuisine, created by DiVino's executive chef Maria Amalia Garza and her team. Everything seemed to match perfectly at this event. I tend to think that whisky and food can be a bit of a hit or miss. I'm of the opinion that food needs to be quite big in flavour to work with 40% and higher alcohol levels, a cornucopia of flavours, and whatever malty or peaty characteristics are at play. There are some flavour/weight marriages that just seem to work, regardless of the circumstances of consumption - for example, Lagavulin 16 and Roquefort never seem to disappoint. Given that Roquefort is also amazing with Sauternes, Loupiac or a great Icewine, this is one versatile cheese!

Each of the whiskies and the tasting plates stood proudly alone, but were enhanced by each other - the ultimate goal. Some of the highlights of the evening included the roasted butternut squash risotto, washed down with a 12 year old Glendronach - a brilliant weight match and complementing sweetness in both the food and the whisky. A 15 year old Linkwood from Gordon and MacPhail was divine with possibly the best osso buco I've tasted. The brioche bread pudding with caramel sauce was fantastic with a 16 year old Longmorn. I tend to describe this whisky as a bit brooding. Come to one of my whisky tastings and I'll undoutedly prattle on about that. The various flavours in the Longmorn - malty sweetness, cereal, nutty hints, vanilla to name a few - worked really well with the sweet, caramel, bread elements in the pudding.

Jim Murray named the cask strength Ardbeg Uigeadail as his Best Whisky of the Year 2009 - not bad out of 3000+ whiskies! This outrageous and utterly fabulous whisky from Islay is not for the faint of heart. It needs no food partner, but was proclaimed outstanding with an amazing creamy, rich Gorgonzola cheese with some quince jelly.

With few apologies for the preceding shameless use of superlatives, these whisky tastings at DiVinos just keep getting better. Hope to see you at the next one!

Scotch Tasting at DiVino Wine Studio October 27 2009

Join us at DiVino's for another unique and exciting Scotch Tasting. We’ll start the evening with a Scotch Malt Whisky cocktail to whet your appetite, and set the stage for some award winning whiskies and private collection gems. Paired with DiVino's superb, whisky-friendly culinary creations, these Scotches will delight the most discerning aficionados. Great food, terrific Scotches, good company, a few stories and a little education - what better way to spend a fall evening! Reserve now for this popular event.

Date: Tuesday, October 27, 2009
7pm to 9pm
225 Preston Street
$85 + tax + 15% gratuities

For information and reservations call 613-221-9760
or email: bookings@divinowinestudio.com

Fabulous Food and Wine Pairings

Everyone who loves good food and good wine feels a special kind of joy when a great wine and food pairing presents itself. Those who enjoy those magic moments like to say that the occasion manifests itself when both the wine and the food is enhanced by each other - kind of like a great partnership between two people, where each brings out the best in the other.
Enough of the romantic metaphors! Over the last couple of months I've had the great privilege of judging a couple of Algonquin College wine and food course final projects - a very tough job, but someone has to do it! I recall this course fondly from my own venture through the Sommelier Program. It's enormous fun, filled with sensible theory and yummy practice. I would highly recommend it for anyone who loves an occasional or regular glass of wine with a meal. After several weeks of tasting and testing and understanding, students are required to produce an ultimate pairing of their own choice, complete with a justification paper. Students typically work in groups of two or three, and take this project very seriously. Usually there are several gatherings beforehand where each group designs, prepares and cooks, while testing a dizzying array of possible wine matches to find the one they deem to be the best. The accompanying paper describes the process and explains why, in the team's opinion, the chosen pairing works best.
On judgement evening, the two judges are presented with a gorgeous array of beautifully prepared samplings of each team's dish and selected beverage, and then given an insanely short amount of time to sample all the pairings, judge them all individually, provide comments and award medal standings up to the ultimate gold. I say insanely short, because the desire is to linger over each pairing, savouring the lovingly prepared array of dishes, and leisurely contemplating the accompanying wine or other beverage. But the evening involves a bit of a foodfest for the students afterwards, where they can sample each others delicacies and wines, so time is of the essence for the judges, conscious of a classful of hungry students, anxiously waiting down the hall for the party to begin!
Gold awards are given out for those perfect, made in heaven pairings, where the food enhances the wine, the wine enhances the food. Although we'd like to linger with these and polish off a complete plateful and a couple of glasses, the silver and bronzes need a bit more time. Those are the matches that are very decent, but not quite out of this world, and even the most seasoned judging palates and noses need to work harder at describing the aspects of acidity, tannins, weight, texture, fruit or whatever that didn't quite work to absolute perfection.
There's a huge amount of subjectivity in this, of course - that's why there's more than one judge. The effort, thought and creativity that goes into the projects is absolutely enormous. Everyone deserves gold for that!
Personally, I love the process of consciously considering what I eat and drink - the origins, growing and cultivation methods, preparation, balancing the aromas, flavours and textures, the visual appeal, and enjoying how it all works together. There are so many requirements these days to grab a quick bite on the run, so it's just marvellous to slow down and consciously consider and enjoy what we put into our stomachs. That's a habit that all students in this program can reacquaint themselves with, while enjoying their newly acquired matching skills. This is a terrific class - whether you're a student or a judge!
The photos throughout are just a few samples of the recent fare on project night. Mmmmmmm!

Recognize these famous wineries?

1. Vineland Estates Winery, Ontario
2. Chateau Margaux, Bordeaux
3. Chateau de la Riviere, Bordeaux
4. Domaine Weinbach, Alsace
5. Yalumba, South Australia

The Gondoliers

Savoy Society of Ottawa
presented Gilbert & Sullivan's The Gondoliers at Centrepointe Theatre in March and April 2009.

Live professional orchestra, lush costumes, fabulous voices, hilarious topical lyrics.......... What a great show! Be sure to see Savoy's next productions of The Zoo in November 2009 and Yeomen of the Guard in April 2010.












Photos courtesy of Spencer Studio/Ottawa

Magnificent Malts and Beautiful Blends!

On February 19th, while President Obama was still savouring the last of his Obamatail, another great Scotch tasting evening was underway at DiVino Wine Studio on Preston Street. An enthusiastic group enjoyed six premium Scotches, paired with some of Chef Arleigh's fabulous appetizers, cheeses and desserts. This was a great evening, where we explored some of the differences and similarities between premium blends and single malts, and the many factors that contribute to their characteristics. If you missed this event, hope to see you at the next one.
The pairings worked wonderfully, some with the Scotch neat and others with just a little dilution to soften out the flavours and enhance the combinations. On the menu was veal scaloppini al limone, paired with Cutty Sark 15 year old blend; smoked salmon with creme fraiche, paired with Scapa 14 year old single malt, garlic roast beef on a crostini with horseradish cream paired with Ballantine's 17 year old blend, poached halibut with a black olive emulsion paired with Springbank 10 year old single malt, chocolate pomegranate torte paired with Glenlivet Archive 21 year old single malt, and blue cheese with fresh chutney and crostini paired with Laphroaig Quarter Cask single malt. These were matches fit for a king.
See you next time!