December 14, 2012

Wines of Israel Part 2 - Tzuba Winery

Yesterday, we had a birthday to celebrate. Because of the slippery accident mentioned in my previous post, dinner was at home in our tiny French apartment, which has minimal cooking facilities. The absolute highlight of the meal was a fabulous bottle of a Bordeaux style blend from Tzuba Estate Winery. This prompted me to share the story of this little winery, which I had the pleasure of visiting last month.
In November, I tasted Israeli wines for the first time and was generally delighted by the quality and diversity.  Israel is a hot, dry country for much of the year, and has a a history of vine growing that goes back to biblical times. Still, as I mentioned in my first article, we generally don't drink much Israeli wine in North America.
The wines I tasted were generally big, bold and balanced - rich in fruit, with nice acidity, earthy elements where required and well integrated tannins. Almost everything was ready for drinking relatively young, suiting 95% of wine purchase requirements, but I have more to explore in this department when I return - next week.
In general, the varieties grown are French, and some Italian and include Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Mourvedre, Viognier, Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauv Blanc, Sangiovese and  more. Some are bottled as straight varietals, and Bordeaux and Rhone style blends are common. The modern wine industry in Israel is quite young and still experimental in some ways, so everyone seems to be growing everything to find out what works best.
According to Paul Dubb, the young winemaker at Tzuba, some work is being carried out at Tel Aviv University on a handful of ancient indigenous varieties, some of them from Druze communities, which survived historical uprooting of vines. It will be very exciting if some currently unknown varieties appear in the future.

Paul  hopes that wineries will continue to focus on the particular varieties that grow best in their regions, which comprise Galilee and Golan Heights, Shomron (south of Galilee), Samson (between Jerusalem and the Mediterranean Sea), Judean Hills and even parts of the Negev desert - in other words, most of Israel. 
At Tzuba, in the Judean Hills, they make very good wines - whites, reds and dessert wines, all popular, all good. Surprisingly, despite the hot summers, wine drinkers in Israel sip much more red wine than white. Yet, according to Paul,  the Judean Hills is ideal for Chardonnay and Viognier, as well as Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. His ultimate goal is to focus on whites, a high end Bordeaux blend and Syrah. Demand for wines from this boutique winery, which only produces about 50,000 bottles a year, outstrips supply. About 30% is sold at the winery, (some before they're even labelled), as much as 60% goes to export and the rest is sold locally.

Paul grew up around wine. His father was a winemaker in Stellenbosch, South Africa ( an area I'm happy to say I'll be exploring in February). He started making wine when he was sixteen, studied Hebrew, and moved to Israel. He's been growing vines and making wine at Tzuba since 1996, with excellent results, due in no small part to careful vineyard management and intelligent experimentation, both with winemaking and cask selection.
In the vineyards, on rocky and ancient terraces, many of the plantings face south west, for equal ripening. At 700 metres, the humidity is low, and the Mediterranean climate provides warm days and cool nights  throughout the growing season. High density plantings and regular thinning throughout the season provides low yields of 7 to 10 tonnes per hectare of high quality grapes. Soil moisture is monitored throughout the season and drip irrigation is used after the harvest to return minerals into the vines.
The grapes are all hand-picked and gently handled during the wine making process.  Paul has carried out much experimentation with different types of French oak, in his quest for the perfect cask for different wines. The winery has its own bottling machine, and so can precisely dictate when the various wines should be bottled.
All of this careful work has resulted in  excellent products, some of which I tasted last month. Here are some reviews.

2011 Chardonnay

I'm not a big fan of overly oaky or creamy Chardonnay. I like my whites crisp, so prefer Chardonnay that hasn't seen any or much oak. Tzuba's 2011 is a great Chardonnay, with beautiful fruit on the nose, (pears, melons, passion fruit, guava) and perfect acidity on the palate to balance the wonderful fresh fruit. I loved this. It was so refreshing. After fermentation, the wine was left on the lees (sur lies) for a while, then half was aged in stainless steel and half in French oak barrels for 8 months, prior to bottling. Previously, I had tried a 2010 version and, for my palate, it was a tad too creamy. Interestingly, the oak aging for the 2010 included two different types of French oak. For the 2011, Paul used only the best, new, Bourgogne Perle Blanche barrels and vinification was identical. Given the consistency of the growing season, year over year, the difference in character can certainly be attributed in part to the specific barrel aging. EXCELLENT wine, around $20. If you're fortunate enough to find any, stock up. Drink it on its own, with many kinds of fish, chicken dishes or with a  fabulous array of appetizers.


2011 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

This was a 50/50 blend. The grapes were crushed and pressed together and maturation was 50% second use barrels and 50% stainless steel. This was an elegant wine, gentle on the nose, with aromas of almonds, pears and ripe green apples. It would have been fun to have tasted a slightly aged 2010. But this particular wine is in high demand and  Tzuba can't keep it on the shelves. Nice problem. Paul opened a second bottle of this, as the first one wasn't "crunchy" enough for his liking - a great term! A VERY NICE WINE. Also around $20.

2010 Syrah

Northern Rhone wine lovers - take note. This lovely wine, 100% Syrah, was spicy, big and elegant after 14 months in a  mixture of old and new French oak. This was drinking very well now, with the tannins already quite nicely integrated. It will be lovely for a few years to come. We talked a bit about age-ability of Israeli wines, in general. I haven't tasted a massive amount as yet, but my feeling is that most of them will drink better young. Paul agrees with this and says that about 10 to 15 years would be the maximum for aging the right wines. In the case of this Syrah, the low volatile acidity in the grapes and minimal use of the tannin press, invites early drinking. A VERY GOOD WINE. Match it up with slow cooked lamb shanks in a rich sauce, involving dried fruits.

Metzuda 2009 and 2010

 
The 2009 version was the one I poured for that birthday dinner I mentioned. An excellent blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, aged for 24 months in French oak, this is a well-balanced, elegant wine, with gorgeous black fruits, some minty herbs, and a bit of chocolate on the nose. It's full bodied, silky smooth, with a bit of spiciness and just the right amount of acidity to balance the opulent fruit. it has a long, satisfying finish. Very moreish. Very delicious. Perfect for drinking now and for a few more years. EXCELLENT WINE. $30 range.
The 2010 is a slightly different blend - 60% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot, 10% CF. It's still young but, according to Paul, will be even better than the 2009. The weather during the growing season was near perfect with few heatwaves, resulting in perfect yields.

Dessert wines

We tried a few dessert wines. A late harvest Chardonnay, (who knew!), sweet from natural fermentation, and, after a year in older barrels, displayed figs, white sultanas and nice acidity. It will mature up very nicely.
Another of the same, after 5 years in barrels, displayed a fabulous nose of honey, apricots, and cognac; but we both agreed that it was lacking in the racy acidity needed to counteract the sweetness. Paul plans to tone back on the heavy presses which dilutes the sugars and diminishes the acidity.
A delicious port style red, made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, grown in the outside rows with no shade, was absolutely delicious - resembling a Late Bottled Vintage. The grapes are naturally sweet and delicately handled. They're left on the peel for a couple of months, have minimal fortification to go from about 15% to 18% alcohol and then barrel aged as long as Paul feels is necessary, followed by some bottle aging. OUTSTANDING. Only about 4 cases are produced each year, so I'm delighted that the one in the photo is mine!
With aromas of prunes, figs and raisins, marzipan, Christmas pudding......this will be amazing with cold nights, good friends, chocolate desserts, a strong blue cheese - or Christmas pudding. There you go - Kosher wine and Christmas pudding - a gentle way to integrate the world.

Cheers! L'Chaim!
Check back soon and join me as I visit more wineries.

December 10, 2012

'Tis the season ~ Single Malts on the shelves, a celebratory Scotch Tasting and an Ottawa Hogmanay



Hogmanay Party in Ottawa!!!!!!

I'm very excited about the recently inaugurated Scottish Society of Ottawa, whose mission is to excite people about the idea of Scotland; its past, its present and its future!
The Society’s inaugural event is set for New Year’s Eve 2012 – a Hogmanay street party at Ottawa City Hall that aims to replicate the excitement of Edinburgh’s world famous Royal Mile as the clock strikes midnight and we enter the New Year. It's just been announced that The Barra MacNeils are the headline act. You won't want to miss this party! Year end festivities also include a tutored tasting by Davin de Kergommeaux on December 30th. This will be a great tasting of wonderful Scotches, at an amazing price. Click here for more details

This year, for various reasons, we'll be spending Christmas on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Dinner might include turkey, almost certainly won't include Christmas pudding, will definitely include Israeli wine; and the after dinner Scotch will be Bruichladdich Valinch, the only one that I'll be lugging from France to Israel. With its unusual maturation in a Calvados cask, it will be just the thing to raise a toast to friends and family.

Single Malts on the LCBO shelves

But despite being geographically displaced from Ottawa, I've had a look at the Single Malt Scotches on the Ontario liquor shelves, and there are more than a few to recommend - for the Scotch lovers on the shopping list, for family and friends dropping by, to raise a toast to 2013, to share around a crackling fire..............
This is not an exhaustive list - there are close to 200 to choose from, although not all available in every store. So, if your favourite doesn't appear here, it doesn't mean I don't like it!

Elegance in small packages

Small, 200ml bottles of Lagavulin 16 year old are on sale at $25. This is a wonderful Islay whisky and the format is ideal if you're not sure, or just want to try one of the best. Of course, you can always buy the full bottle as well.  Read about my trip to Lagavulin.

18 is a great age

Something magical seems to happen to Scotch whisky, after it's been  quietly maturing in oak barrels  for around 18 years. There's a lot of debate about the perfect age for whisky, and the reality is that there are splendid Scotches of every age, including some quite young spirit. But, in every barrel, a wonderful combination of chemistry and magic seems to take place over the years. For those looking for rich,  integrated, well-balanced, multifaceted Single Malts, there are some splendid 18 year old products on the shelves. These aren't in the "budget buy" category - but for someone special, including yourself..........

Aberlour 18 year old 

Around $148, rich dried fruits, toffee, full bodied, (no peat/smoke), beautifully balanced. My favourite Aberlour.

Bowmore 18 year old

Around $127, rich, smoky, spicy, dried fruits, I had a great visit to the distillery in September. 

Laphroaig 18 year old

OK, I have a soft spot for smoky whiskies. Laphroaig 10 year old ($80) is an absolute Islay classic and one of the best for that crackling fire previously mentioned. For further richness and additional flavours and elegance, the 18 year old is a gem - $180. While I'm on about Laphroaig, I never tire of Quarter Cask - $70. The newer Triple Wood at $90, is like Quarter Cask with an extra maturation in oloroso sherry casks. Click here to read about my Laphroaig distillery visit.

Highland Park 18 year old

Around $150. I love this whisky from Scotland's most northerly distillery in Orkney. Rich, great balance, just a  tiny bit of peat presence.

Ten is a good age, too

Ardbeg 10 year old

Around $100, a peaty, Islay classic. Read about my distillery visit.




Talisker 10 year old

From the Isle of Skye, around $80, different peat character from Islay

Glenmorangie 10 year old

About $67, good whisky for a new Scotch drinker, nice to drink anytime, a hint of mint toffee.

If you're travelling and can find a bottle of Glenmorangie Signet, this is a remarkably fine Single Malt whisky, created from some very old whiskies, featuring some roasted chocolate barley malt and some very fine maturation casks, presented in a  beautiful bottle. I tasted this last month and it is exquisitely beautiful. Using words like rich, roasted nuts, chocolate orange, full-bodied and delicious seems inadequate. This is one very, very  fine whisky if you can find it.

A couple of Glenfiddichs

If you're in the Toronto area, with $26,000 to spend, that bottle of 50 year old that I mentioned last year, is still on the books.
If your seasonal travels take you through a duty free shop, pick up a gift box containing the Glenfiddich 125th anniversary Single Malt. It's wonderful, and is designed after the original style made by the distillery, back in the day. There's some nice peat in this bottle. No age expression, but probably about 14 years. I picked up a bottle in Edinburgh for 70 pounds (Sorry, can't remember the code for my pound character). The gilt tin box will be splendid for storing mince pies, Christmas cookies, black bun and the like!

More elegance

The Macallan Fine Oak 21 year old is not cheap at $380, but, oh my, this is a nice whisky. I tasted it again most recently at Whisky Luxe in Edinburgh - a great event.

And a few more

Glenfiddich 15 - great value, delicious, sweet, unique solera system $65
Glendronach Revival 15 $95
Dalwhinnie 15 Highland whisky of good character, nothing overt, very drinkable $90, from Scotland's highest distillery
Cragganmore 12 $85
Glendronach 12 $60

Sample some fine Single Malts in April

I'll be leading a public tasting at Divinos in April. There will be fine Scotches, great food, good fun, friendly conversation and some education. Makes a great Christmas gift! Meanwhile, drop us a line if you'd like to inquire about private or Corporate events.
A parting story from France..... Although we're in an area near the Alps, with great views of Mont Blanc, there usually isn't much snow on the ground in the village. Not so this year, where we've had a steady stream of snow and ice with melts in between, resulting in sidewalks that would rival the canal above. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any public salting service that I could see. My husband had a spill, did some damage to himself and was carted off in an ambulance. He's on the mend, so no worries, but it was interesting to observe, during the 10 hours or so in emergency, that almost everyone appearing for treatment had fallen and hurt something. It made me appreciate the abundance of salt and grit in Ottawa. The irony of it all was that the ambulance ride was complimentary - a public service!

Slainte!
Happy Christmas,
Very best wishes for an outstanding 2013